We woke up at 6, but unusually no others were awake, so we waited until 7.10 before getting up
for a cup of tea and then set off down the hill to search for a cafe with coffee, tortilla, and omelette sandwiches
for later. In the 14th century pilgrims were granted free passage on the ferry by king Ferdinand, but
we used the modern bridge to cross the estuary. There followed a long climb up a hill
past farms to a caravan site and then down a long flight of steps to the beach, stepping aside
to let hordes of German youths trot down for their surfing lessons.
Down on the modern promenade in Zarautz, we paused for coffee and sticky buns then continued along
the coastal promenade by the side of the main road to Getaria.
It emerged from a display in the tourist office, that the captain on Magellan's voyage round
the world was born in Getaria, and as Magellan had died, he was in fact the first man to captain a ship
round the world.
This was a major milestone in history, of which the Basques are very proud, as it proved conclusively
that the earth was round and the oceans interconnected.
There was also a fascinating old church, with ramparts built into it.
From there, on Roman and medieval roads to Zumaia, where we relaxed on the beach and Angus even had a swim, before finding a supermarket
to top up our supplies, and finally struggling up the hill to the Santa Klara albergue, a farm guest house
with a wonderful view of the ocean and a spectacular sunset.